Things Are Different When You Go Back

Lots of my supper club roots go back to my upbringing in a very Italian community in NY. It was a great place to grow up. It was a great place to eat. But things change.

Many of the scenes of my youth evolved around an Italian restaurant and bar Casserella’s. Susan and I went there last night and it is now an upscale Italian restaurant called Lago’s.

It was a bit of a tell when the waiter introduced himself as Juan. My dad used to say that every waiter in a French restaurant in New York was really Italian. Today everyone working in an Italian restaurant in New York is Hispanic. This is actually a good thing it is just different.

Juan was great. He was well schooled on the menu. He even spoke New York Italian very well. On one my many trips to Italy I realized that Italian of my youth (or as Cousin Vinny would say: “my yutes”) was very different than real Italian. With New York Italian, when you were cool, you cut off the vowels. Prosciutto becomes prosciut. Mozzarella becomes mozarell. Juan’s Italian was very cool and it was music to my ears.

I explained that I had grown up in there. He told me he had a guy about 90 years old come in and tell him that beers used to cost 10 cents. I explained that I wasn’t nearly that old. In my day the beers cost 33 cents each. You got 3 beers for a dollar and the bartender Eddy would give you a fourth for free. So at a memory of a 25 cent beer, I am really old.

The food at Lago’s was actually pretty good. While memories usually make the food of your youth seem better, to be honest the food at Cassarella’s was inconsistent at best. My buddy John Nangle was once working in the kitchen making salads when Cassarella’s got reviewed by the local newspaper the Reporter Dispatch (affectionately referred to as the “Distorted Repatch”). The reviewer cited John’s work that night by stating he had been served a very “Undistinguished Salad”. John explained: “What should you expect, no-one had ever told me that there was a difference between cucumber and zucchini”.

Speaking of inconsistent, growing up we knew who the cook was each night. If Gracie was cooking you were in for a treat. If another cook was working we just drank beer. Actually we drank beer every night, we just ate better when Gracie was cooking. I have been trying to replicate Gracie’s veal chop Milanese for years. No amount of beer could dull that memory.

You can expect to see a recipe for Gracie’s Veal Chop Milanese on an upcoming supper club menu. Distance may make the heart grow fonder, but memories are usually that things tasted better. Well maybe…

If you enjoy this blog and similar other stories/supper club lessons subscribe to get future blogs at www.impromptufridaynights.com/blog and be on the look out for my book Impromptu Friday Nights a Guide to Supper Clubs. Morgan James Publishing published the E-Version on September 5, 2017 and the hard copy coming out January 30, 2018.

Four Simple Sauces

Sauces are a great way to make your supper club meals special. Somehow, many people have the perception that it is hard to make a great sauce. The truth is that there are easy ways to make a really good sauce.

Béarnaise Blush Sauce

Cheating a little isn’t necessarily a bad thing. For this sauce I use a package of Knorr’s Béarnaise sauce, follow the instructions on the package and add two tablespoons of tomato paste and voila. This sauce tastes great and is almost foolproof. Real Béarnaise sauce is not stable as you risk having the butter separate. The packaged version can be made ahead, sit cooling on the stove for an hour and then be reheated whisked and voila.

This sauce works well with all kinds of proteins, steak, rack of lamb, chicken, fish etc.

Using a packaged sauce is not kosher with real chefs. I love Anthony Bourdain’s story about sneaking a commercial culinary sauce base into culinary school and getting rave reviews from the instructor for his sauces. He knew a trick of the trade from working in restaurants prior to culinary school. Cheating works when the results taste great.

Southwestern Sauce

There is nothing simpler than whisking together 5 ingredients. Again, a beauty of this sauce is that it is so stable and foolproof. It is served at room temperature and can be made days in advance. The only downside is that when people find out how simple it is their opinion of it wanes.

This sauce works well in a variety of applications. I serve it with quesadillas, Shrimp, French fries etc.

Horseradish Sauce

What makes this sauce even simpler is that you have already made the base for this sauce with Southwestern sauce. Again you whip together mayonnaise, sour cream and prepared horseradish and voila.

This sauce is killer with a prime rib, but works well with a variety of beef dishes. One of my favorites is adding this to sandwich after it has sat in the refrigerator for a few days.

Piccata Sauce

This sauce is not as simple as the first three, but isn’t all that hard and really tastes great. With very little practice you get really good at making this sauce. I usually make it an hour or two in advance, let it cool on the stove top and then reheat, whisk and serve.

The recipe calls for making it with chicken, but it works equally well with fish shrimp, pasta etc.

They say that the reason the French historically made such great sauces is that the quality of their proteins was not great and you needed a good sauce to cover-up off flavors. Whatever the reason, great sauces make for great meals and memorable supper club events.

If you enjoy this blog and similar other stories/supper club lessons subscribe to get future blogs at www.impromptufridaynights.com/blog and be on the look out for my book Impromptu Friday Nights a Guide to Supper Clubs due out from Morgan James Publishing on January 30, 2018.

Special Wines For Special Occasions

Good wines have always been an important component of our supper club experience. There is something special about a wine that links to special moments in your life.

The Joseph Phelps Vineyard is California’s Napa Valley has always been a special place for the Kenny family. In 1983 we moved to the San Francisco Bay area. We knew very little about fine cuisine and even less about wine, but what a place to learn. Funny thing is that we had more visitors in the 22 months we lived in California than we have had in the 27 years we have lived in Memphis.

With each set of visitors we tried to incorporate a trip to the Napa valley. Right at the start we fell in love with the Joseph Phelps vineyard. The little sub valley is just a magical place and they make fantastic wines.

In 1984 our first child Jennifer was born in California. Shortly thereafter our friend Tom Julian visited and bought a special 3-liter bottle of Phelps Cabernet. The plan was to save the bottle for Jenn’s 16th birthday. That plan led to a wonderful party and even more special tradition.

In 2013 Jennifer announced the sex of our first grandchild at a wonderful event at the Phelps vineyard. We had the whole family there and Phelps team hosted a superb education and tasting for the event. The only downside was that poor Jennifer being pregnant couldn’t enjoy the wines and is still mad at her father today.

Now with each grandchild we buy a 3-liter bottle to be held for a 16th birthday party. The good news is that there are two bottles in the cellar and a third on order. Additionally, I have justification for buying a larger wine cellar.

Past the 16th birthday parties Phelps wines are always our favorites. I will always search them out for special occasions and quite often finding a bottle of Phelps cabernet has made an evening special.

If you enjoy this blog and similar other stories/supper club lessons subscribe to get future blogs at www.impromptufridaynights.com/blog and be on the look out for my book Impromptu Friday Nights a Guide to Supper Clubs due out from Morgan James Publishing on January 30, 2018.