Variations on a Theme

Crème Brûlée is very popular. It is on the dessert menu of a large percentage of the better restaurants. I have been making it for years and actually have 2 blow torches and an extra canister of fuel, just in case. To be honest, the Brûlée part (charred sugar) is not my favorite. I talked about this with my friend Lucien last spring while we were in France together and he agreed. He told me that he makes custard for his wife’s mother and instead of Brûlée he tops the custard with fresh fruit. This variation on a theme is simply brilliant.

Fast forward to the summer peach season and what I call:

Crème Custard with Fresh Peaches and Berries

This has become the go-to dessert of the summer. It is the kind of dish that you can be pretty sure that if your guests don’t like the dinner, they are going to love the dessert. There is one variation to Lucien’s theme that I love and that comes from tossing the fresh fruit in maple syrup. Somehow the smokiness of the syrup adds a caramel note to the custard. I even thought of calling the dish Crème Caramel with Fresh Fruit but I didn’t in homage to my grandfather.

My grandfather loved Custard Pie. My mother would always make it when he visited. My father complained that mom wouldn’t make it for him, but she always made it for her father. Unfortunately for Gramps, it is pretty rare to find Custard Pie. Gramps would take us to Stanley’s, his favorite diner, where he would order Coconut Custard Pie and scrape off the coconut. How could he have known back then that his chubby grandson would go on to be the President of a coconut company, Franklin Baker Company of the Philippines? I can still remember Gramps saying: “This meal was so good, I just wish I was still hungry so I could eat more.”

Gramps with a smile that says his custard pie was so good that..

My grandfather was the family icon of his generation. (Check out the blog). He had 10 grandchildren. A few years ago I was playing golf with my cousin Buddy and the question came up of: Who would be the family icon of our generation? Almost in harmony we both answered, “It’s not me, it’s not me.” My vote is for my cousin Virginia who is the queen of her idilic valley on Maui. I am not sure if her connection with Maui Wowie helps or hurts her chances. Maybe that is just another variation on a theme.

My cousin Virginia in Maui with our grandkids

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New York Bagels

What is it about New York and bagels? When our daughter Jennifer was about 10 years old, we lived in Memphis, but she would spend summers with her grandmother in Westhampton, NY. After a summer of enjoying New York bagels, upon her return to Tennessee she asked: “Why are the bagels better at Mom-Mom’s?” The simple answer is: they just are.

Of course there are several reasons:

The tradition of making bagels
The skill of the baker
- Today most of the bakers in New York are Hispanic. To quote the play Hamilton: “Immigrants get the job done”
The flour
The water
The air
The Schmutz

Making bagels isn’t particularly difficult. I tried during COVID. While I managed to make a decent bagel, it simply wasn’t worth the effort—especially in New York where excellent bagel shops abound. Everyone has their favorites. Mine is Goldberg’s in Westhampton. There’s a chain of Goldberg bagel shops, but the Westhampton location isn’t part of it. Our daughter’s kids spend summers between grandparents: us in Westhampton and their other grandparents 40 miles away in Montauk (lucky them). The grandkids insist that the Montauk Goldberg bagels are better. These kids eat a lot of bagels…

Westhampton Beach Bagel Experts Enjoying Beach with Cousins

Montauk Bagel Experts Enjoying the Beach with Cousins

While making bagels might not be worth the effort, making cream cheese spreads certainly is. I make several varieties of spreads that share common qualities: they’re all delicious, easy to make, and save a fortune compared to bagel shop prices. My favorite Goldberg’s in Westhampton is excellent, but they are proud of their products.

You can start with any brand of cream cheese. For someone who made a living selling Kraft’s Philadelphia Brand Cream Cheese, this might sound sacrilegious, but after adding several ingredients, no one can tell the difference between Philadelphia brand and store brands (oh well).

My go-to spreads include:

(Click on the spread for a link to the recipe)

Top – Salmon, Bottom left – Scallion, Bottom right Salmon, Horseradish, Dill, Herbs

With a microwave and a food processor, anyone can make a great spread in 15 to 20 minutes. The beauty of a great spread is that you don’t need to be in New York to have a memorable bagel experience. Adding any one of these spreads to a mediocre or day-old bagel that has been toasted, and you will have a tasty bagel.

The Secret to Simple, Crowd-Pleasing Cuisine”

It is no secret, there are certain ingredients and techniques that make a meal delicious, easy to prepare, and appealing to most people:

Fresh Fish

If you enjoy fish, there’s nothing quite like freshly caught fish. The mere knowledge of its freshness enhances its taste. In Westhampton Bay, the most prized catch is fluke—a “summer flounder” that can grow quite large. These fish are often called “doormats” due to their size. While there are size limits and most fishing is catch-and-release, my cousin and his friends used to prefer “fillet and release.” Regardless of size, even if you’re not typically a fish enthusiast, you’ll likely enjoy well-prepared, fresh fluke.

Butter and Garlic

This winning combination is central to many popular dishes worldwide. However, not everyone appreciates this savory duo. My aunt once claimed she was allergic to garlic. When my cousin took her to a Wolfgang Puck restaurant in Los Angeles, she became tearful because she couldn’t find anything on the menu she could eat.

Fresh Herbs

One of the joys of summer in Westhampton is my mother’s herb garden. Despite losing some plants during the house reconstruction, the core of the garden remains intact. Adding fresh chives, dill, thyme, and basil can elevate any dish.

Mashed Potatoes

Few people dislike mashed potatoes—they’re the ultimate comfort food. While we might avoid them due to their carb and calorie content, serve them on a plate and people will happily indulge. Combine them with the flavors mentioned above, and your friends and family will be delighted.

Garden Salad

It may sound cliché, but summer salads are simply superior. Local lettuce from the farm stand tastes noticeably better. Home-grown tomatoes in August are a real treat. Ironically, both my son-in-law and daughter-in-law dislike tomatoes. I can’t explain how that happened, but it’s their loss—more for the rest of us!

Mise En Place… the key ingredients

Ease of preparation is also key. The French concept of mise en place works wonders. Having all your ingredients prepared in advance is crucial:

Fish brought to room temperature and seasoned with salt and pepper
Olive oil at hand
Potatoes boiled until fork-tender, with milk, butter, salt & pepper ready
Butter
Garlic, diced
Herbs, chopped
Salad prepped and vinaigrette at hand

With your preparation complete, you can enjoy your adult beverages by the pool with a light appetizer. Give your guests a 15-minute warning and recruit three assistants:

One to mash potatoes
Another to toss the salad
A third to open and pour the wine

Delegation works well—people like to help, and with a little direction, a meal can come together beautifully.

Here are some closing statement options to wrap up your crowd-pleasing meal:

Express gratitude: Thank your guests for coming and your helpers for their assistance in preparing the meal.
Share a toast: Raise a glass to good food, good company, and the simple pleasures of life.
Invite feedback: Encourage your guests to share their favorite part of the meal or any new flavor combinations they enjoyed.
Plan for next time: Suggest making these gatherings a regular occurrence, perhaps with rotating hosts or themes.
End with a light dessert: Offer a simple, refreshing dessert like fresh fruit or a small scoop of sorbet to cleanse the palate.

There is one more secret that we should remember, the key to a memorable meal is not just the food, but the warmth and hospitality you provide. A relaxed host creates a relaxed atmosphere, ensuring everyone leaves with fond memories and full stomachs.